The Lethargy Of A Coastal Town In Camagüey
14ymedio, Reinaldo Escobar, Florida, Cuba, 26 June 2017 — “The sea water
cleans everything,” Agustin reflects as he calls out his
merchandise. This 74-year-old forensic assistant now works renting
inflatable boats for the fishermen of Playa Florida, in Camagüey, a
coastal strip where tourists rarely come and the economic crisis is
“I came here to escape the odor of death, and I did,” jokes the worker,
one of the few residents in the unpopulated streets on Friday. On every
side many of the few houses that do not seem vacant exhibit a “for sale”
sign. “All of Playa Florida is for sale but no one wants to buy it,” a
Lacking the natural beauty of the north coast, with no functioning
industries and no important crops, the area is experiencing times of
hardship that have worsened in recent years. On the entrance road, a
rusted out anchor gives visitors a preview of the lethargy they will
Only 24 miles separate the fishermen’s village from the municipal
center, but it takes between four and six hours to cover the route due
to the poor state of the road and the lack of public transport. On both
sides of the road, the invasive marabou weed rises defiantly.
Lack communication characterizes the village. Nowhere among its crowded
streets has a public telephone been installed and cell phones only
manage to pick up a signal near the medical clinic, due to the poor
coverage of the area.
The lack of mobility also sinks the area’s small businesses. The private
restaurant Comida Criollo barely survives after being opened five
years. Alfredo, the paladar’s chef, says that “from time to time a
foreign tourist arrives.” People who “explore every corner with a map in
hand,” but they are fewer and fewer.
Of the 4 million visitors who arrived in Cuba last year, only a few
dozen came to this coast without white sands or crystal clear water,
where to take a dip the bather must wear shoes to avoid the mud, stones
and mangrove roots.
“Without tourists there is no money,” Bururu, an informal realtor,
tells 14ymedio. The high number of homes for sale has caused a collapse
of prices in the area. “A two-room house with a covered porch, cistern
and garden can cost less than 1,000 CUC (roughly $1,000 US),” he says.
“They put a jacuzzi in the bathroom and all the furniture inside is from
the mall,” says Bururú while pointing to a newly painted building. The
dealer takes his time to describe the characteristics of each house,
hoping to make at least one sale.
“People do not want to stay because there is nothing to do here,” he
explains to the 14ymedio. The man blames the stampede on the fact that
“there are no recreational options and also nowhere to work”. “[The
fishing] is not as good as in other places, so it gives you something to
eat but not enough to make a living,” he emphasizes.
Near the coastline, a fisherman removes the scales from a sea bass he
caught that morning. “I promised it to a family that wants to celebrate
the birthday of their youngest son,” he tells a woman who inquires about
the price of fish.
“The fishing is very affected since they built the embankment,” says the
fisherman. “This area used to get a lot of oysters, but that has
decreased a lot,” he adds.
The narrow and rugged access road divides the wetland in two and it has
lost a part of the mangroves in its southern area. “Experts came here to
research it and said that cutting the flow of water had increased the
salinity and that is killing the mangroves.”
In 2009 the United Nations Small Grants Program provided more than
$40,000 in funding for ecosystem recovery, but eight years later the
damage has hardly been reversed. “The sea water has entered the river
Mala Fama inland,” says the fisherman.
The coast has also been affected by rising sea levels, to the extent
that rumors of relocating the village have increased in recent
years. Wooden palisades are trying to slow down the push of the waves
during hurricanes, but they seem like ridiculous chopsticks in the face
of the immensity of the Caribbean.
The picture of deterioration is completed by the Argentina Campsite.
where for months there has been neither electricity nor water. Julia,
the guard who watches the entrance of the abandoned place, is
categorical. “Here in Florida Beach, the only thing that is abundant is
gnats and mosquitoes.”
Source: The Lethargy Of A Coastal Town In Camagüey – Translating Cuba –